Thursday, December 09, 2004

Actually, the "Average American Woman" is a Size 14, But That's Not the Point, My American Harem Ladies

I just about flipped when I found this:

Fatima Mernissi and the Size 6 Harem

It was during my unsuccessful attempt to buy a cotton skirt in an American department store that I was told my hips were too large to fit into a size 6. That distressing experience made me realize how the image of beauty in the West can hurt and humiliate a woman as much as the veil does when enforced by the state police in extremist nations such as Iran, Afghanistan, or Saudi Arabia. Yes, that day I stumbled onto one of the keys to the enigma of passive beauty in Western harem fantasies. The elegant saleslady in the American store looked at me without moving from her desk and said that she had no skirt my size. "In this whole big store, there is no skirt for me?" I said. "You are joking." I felt very suspicious and thought that she just might be too tired to help me. I could understand that. But then the saleswoman added a condescending judgment, which sounded to me like Imam fatwa. It left no room for discussion:

"You are too big!" she said.

"I am too big compared to what?" I asked, looking at her intently, because I realized that I was facing a critical cultural gap here.

"Compared to a size 6," came the saleslady's reply.

[...]

"And who says that everyone must be a size 6?" I joked to the saleslady that day, deliberately neglecting to mention size 4, which is the size of my 12-year-old niece.

At that point, the saleslady suddenly gave me and anxious look. "The norm is everywhere, my dear," she said. "It's all over, in the magazines, on television, in the ads. You can't escape it. There is Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Gianna Versace, Giorgio Armani, Mario Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent, Christian Lacroix, and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Big department stores go by the norm." She paused and then concluded, "If they sold size 14 or 16, which is probably what you need, they would go bankrupt." [Kameron note: Like Old Navy and Eddie Bauer??]

[...]

Yes, I thought as I wandered off, I have finally found the answer to my harem enigma. Unlike the Muslim man, who uses space to establish male domination by excluding women from the public arena, the Western man manipulates time and light. He declares that in order to be beautiful, a woman must look fourteen years old. If she dares to look fifty, or worse, sixty, she is beyond the pale. By putting the spotlight on the female child and framing her as the ideal of beauty, he condemns the mature woman to invisibility. In fact, the modern Western man enforces Immanuel Kant's nineteenth-century theories: To be beautiful, women have to appear childish and brainless. When a woman looks mature and self-assertive, or allows her hips to expand, she is condemned as ugly. Thus, the walls of the European harem separate youthful beauty from ugly maturity.

These Western attitudes, I thought, are even more dangerous and cunning than the Muslim ones because the weapon used against women is time. Time is less visible, more fluid than space. The Western man uses images and spotlights to freeze female beauty within an idealized childhood, and forces women to perceive aging—that normal unfolding of years—as a shameful devaluation. "Here I am, transformed into a dinosaur," I caught myself saying aloud as I went up and down the rows of skirt in the store, hoping to prove the saleslady wrong—to no avail. This Western time-defined veil is even crazier than the space-defined one enforced by the Ayatollahs.

[...]

Women enter power games with so much of their energy deflected to their physical appearance that one hesitates to say that the playing field is level. "A cultural fixation on female thinness is not an obsession about female beauty," explains Wolf. It is "an obsession about female obedience. Dieting is the most potent political sedative in women's history; a quietly mad population is a tractable one."

Research, she contends, "confirmed what most women know too well—that concern with weight leads to a 'virtual collapse of self-esteem and sense of effectiveness' and that . . . 'prolonged and periodic caloric restriction' resulted in a distinctive personality whose traits are passivity, anxiety, and emotionality."

Similarly, Bourdieu, who focuses more on how this myth hammers its inscriptions onto the flesh itself, recognizes that constantly reminding women of their physical appearances destabilizes them emotionally because it reduces them to exhibited objects. "By confining women to the status of symbolical objects to be seen and perceives by the other, masculine domination . . . puts women in a state of constant physical insecurity. . . . They have to strive ceaselessly to be engaging, attractive, and available." Being frozen into the passive position of an object whose very existence depends on the eyes of its beholder turns the educated modern Western women into a harem slave.


Read the whole thing here .

There's also a fantastic book called The Body Project that looks at the history of women's obsession with their bodies. Essentially, she argues, we've merely gone from using external devices to control women's shapes (corsets, elaborate skirting and hooping), to using external devices (the 1920s saw the corset going out of fashion, and dieting or "reducing" really coming into its own): you can chalk up plastic surgery here, too. Many women who get breast implants don't "have" to wear a bra anymore. Their breasts are now hard and high enough that they don't jiggle much at all. Same goes for obsessions over flat abs - we used to wear corsets for tummy control and the illusion of a bust. Not having corsets doesn't neccessarily make women any more liberated in regards to their bodies. Sure, you've got less restricted movement, but if you're starving yourself to look thinner, you've hardly got more energy to move around.

And, perhaps more importantly, as Fatima says, "To deprive me of food is definitely to deprive me of my thinking capabilities."
Fascinating stuff.

6 comments so far. What are your thoughts?

Anonymous said...

Great post - thanks for the link.

I long ago decided it's better to be fit than thin. No matter what dieting I attempt, I tend to remain around a size 12. When I'm not dieting, I'm - guess what? - a size 12. Gee, at my worst I'm a 14. Big deal. At my thinnest ever, I was a size 8, but that was before having 2 kids stretched me out forever. I've never had less than 40 inch hips since puberty, they're just that wide.

At 46, I do pilates and yoga as my main exercise, occasionally wieght training. I coached soccer until I was 40. I'm far more fit and healthy tham most women my age, except the ones I know at the gym. I look up to and admire the women there in their 60s and even 70s who still work out and stay fit.

I look at these kids coming up now, so thin, and wonder how they'll feel when osteosporosis hits them. I look at the women around me, so thin, and wonder the same thing. I think of the overly thin women I've known who ended up with ovarian cancer, or anorexia. I think of my friends who go crazy trying to diet themselves to whatever it is they think their perfect weight is, and guess what, they get there and they still don't think they are perfect.

This is a sick, sick, culture we live in. The ideals set for women are nuts. The crazy making is everywhere - junk food and soda are everywhere, and you really have to work at it to have anything approaching a natural diet. Food manufacturers go nuts over the latest trend in dieting, giving us low carb brownies and ice cream. Absolute crazy making.

I was actually so happy I had boys and not girls. I wouldn't have wanted to try and raise girls in this culture. I would hope I could have handled it, but I think I would have ended up tying my daughter's friends down and forcing them to eat or something.

I am no fan of repressive Muslim culture, either. The limits on women in many Muslim countries infuriate me. But the lack of power women have in American society, after all we tried to do in the 70s, is astounding. We've lost so much ground, in so many ways. To see what women grow up with and accept now, after all the years I spent in the working world, trying to fight the stereotypes, trying to promote women in computing, science, technology, is very disheartening.

Well, the wheel turns and around we go again. Maybe in my old age I'll get to see the return of feminism, the burning of the bras in whatever form it may take. I guess I move on now to become one of the crones, a gray champion for those younger women I can help to empower somehow....
 

Posted by donna

Anonymous said...

Hey Donna.

I look at these kids coming up now, so thin, and wonder how they'll feel when osteosporosis hits them. What's not often reported in studies about weight and obesity is that people who are 10 lbs or more *underweight* have the same increased health risk as those who are *a hundred pounds or more overweight.* (Paul Campos, The Obesity Myth). And yea, osteoporosis is a huge one. It'll be interesting to see how big that one gets in 20 years.

But the lack of power women have in American society, after all we tried to do in the 70s, is astounding. We've lost so much ground, in so many ways. To see what women grow up with and accept now, after all the years I spent in the working world, trying to fight the stereotypes, trying to promote women in computing, science, technology, is very disheartening. I've heard a *lot* of 60s-70s feminists who feel the exact same way. I think that, if I was a 70s feminist, I would have seen the backlash of the 80s and the silence of many young women today (who haven't found places to voice their complaints? Who don't know that they should ask questions? Who think that because they're miserable, there must be something wrong with *them* and not society?) as absolutely horrifying. And exhausting.

My mother was the first woman to work in her office who wasn't a secretary or an accountant (she later became a VP), and she likes to tell the story of how she'd have the secretary guard the men's bathroom while she went in to check the latest company news posted up on the bulletin board there. Yes. If you wanted to be informed about what was going on, *you had to go into the men's bathroom.*

And you know, she got really tired. You raise your kids, kick ass with your career, get an MBA, and you get told that now, sorry, you may have worked your ass off, but your hips are too big and you're too old. Which has somehow come to mean that your opinons and experience are useless. It's just another way to discredit powerful voices.

I would *love* to see the return of the feminist movement. We've had over 20 years of backlash. It'd be cool if the internet could act like the consciousness-raising groups in the 70s: getting lots of women together to talk about their shared experiences and form a course of action.

Hearing the voices of others who've also been told they're just too loud/too nuts/too big/too old/too female goes a long way toward eliminating that feeling of isolation. If nothing else, reading other women's stories might inspire readers to try negotiating their own pay raises, taking self-defense classes, and speaking up about sexist bullshit on the job. There's just something about seeing other women pushing the envelope that's really inspiring. If we can't get a huge ball rolling, I'd like to think women's voices on the internet could at least change little things, individual lives.

Because little stuff adds up. One woman at a time.

I love what's going on at feminist blogs, and I know there are a lot of feminist forums out there - I just wish we could figure out a way to reach an even bigger and broader audience.

 

Posted by Kameron Hurley

Anonymous said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Anonymous said...

I 'about flipped' when I read your absurd comparison of Western anti-fat attitudes with the pervasive misogyny of Islamic culture.

You may find the the following interesting:

http://service.spiegel.de/cache/international/0,1518,344374,00.html 

Posted by Joy

Anonymous said...

I think the piece about Women's sizes is very persuasive...and wholly inaccurate. I used to work in a department store and what you're claiming is so impractical and insulting, most companies would go out of business in a heartbeat for treating a customer so poorly. In fact, I've never ever seen a female customer berated for her size. As we all know, many American women and American men are overweight. We sold many 14 and 16 sizes and they were probably the staple size of our business. I can't believe a saleslady anywhere said such a thing.
As far as your comparison of Western men's ideas of beauty with Islamic men -- I happen to think they're both very similar. They both like beautiful women and have problems with expressing and understanding beauty of the body and the heart. Islamic men appear to be more outwardly possessive of their women. Western men believe that physical perfection in their women denotes their status in the world. Either way, you cannot bond someone to you through coercion, bullying or demands. You bind people to you with a light, accepting grasp. So, size should not be as important as it is in those respects. But, there is an epidemic of obesity in America and several other countries, as well. So, let's stop pretending that carrying around an extra 40 to 60 pounds is okay and admit we're responsible for our lives, our happiness and our health. By the way, most of the purveyors of standards for women in this country are the fashion designers -- who happen to be gay men. Ask them why they think all fashion models should look like drag queens. I'd like to know the answer, wouldn't you?  

Posted by Kimberly

Anonymous said...

Uh... clarification: have any of you recent readers of this old post followed the link to the person who actually posted this? This was written by a woman named Fatima Mernissi. Not by Kameron Hurley.

It's not me comparing men's views of women in the west and Islamic men's views of women, it's Ms. Mernissi's.

I do, however, find it a fascinating comparison and subject for debate.

Soo... debate away. Just be clear about who wrote that piece.  

Posted by Kameron Hurley